Recently, FUA students sat down with gelateria owner and professional expert Vetulio Bondi to learn more about the Florentine favorite. Bondi opened his shop I Gelati Del Bondi in 1982, is the president of the Florence Gelato Association, and has taught the gelato making seminar at Apicius.

How has gelato evolved throughout the years?
The first frozen gelato from Renaissance times was made from egg yolk and snow. The court chefs used to preserve snow from the mountains in the Boboli Gardens. When my shop first opened in the 80s, it was totally different than now because the kind of gelato tastes much more cold because we don’t put different kind of sugars. Nowadays, we use sugars that give the sensation that gelato is a little bit warmer. There was a time when people liked their gelato really sweet, and now they like it less sweet. The property of the sugar is really important as well because it is the cause of the modern, warmer gelato. Also, I am against soft drinks because sometimes people will eat a sandwich and have a soft drink without realizing how much sugar they are consuming. I suggest drinking water and then having a cup of gelato, because it will give you happiness, of course, and when you drink a soda you don’t understand the sugar and chemicals you are consuming.

How does gelato in Florence differ from other regions in Italy?
There is a big tradition of gelato in Florence from the 15-16th centuries. If you get any travel guide of Italy, there will be two pages of gelato because it was born here. Sicily on the other hand, has a longstanding tradition of the granita which is more similar to a slushie.

How does the quality of ingredients affect the final product of gelato?
It’s really important. Some gelaterias don’t use fresh milk and this results in a completely different taste. The fresh milk is pasteurized at 72 degrees. The longer shelf life milk is pasteurized at 135 degrees. All of the flavor is gone. That’s why it’s important to use fresh ingredients.

What is your typical day?
I wake up at 9, at 10 I’m at my lab (I Gelati del Bondi). It depends on whether I’m doing an educational demo or a cooking show, and then I spend my day here until 1. I serve my customers, and I try to do my best because everyday is a challenge.

What is your favorite part of the day?
Usually around 4 or 5 when it gets crowded, I like making conversation with my customers. It is important because I don’t have the presumption that I make the best gelato, but I prepare my gelato with heart.

What is your most exotic flavor?
I personally love passionfruit, but the most popular flavor with customers is mango and coconut. In Europe, we try to follow the seasons, so in the summer, it is much better to eat the peach sorbet than the mango sorbet because the mangos are imported from Brazil. Peach, melon, and watermelon, and plum sorbets are amazing.

What is your personal favorite?
I grew up on cherries so my favorite is a simple cherries and cream. In the summer, I like to make a combination of rasperries and egg cream because the acidity of the berries and the creaminess of the egg yolk meld perfectly.

When people come to Italy, how should they choose good gelato?
Well, it is really easy. When you see a mountain, turn around. It is Italian, but can be full of palm oil and fat. Many people in Florence prefer one spot over another, so I suggest to all my customers to read the ingredients. In my case, I do not use palm oil because I am against it for health reasons, and it is not eco-friendly.

Want to know more about sharpening your expertise when choosing gelato? Read this post on the Finding Florence FUA student blog.